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createx paint

AIRBRUSH PAINT HELP

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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #1
createx paint
iceberg77 iceberg77 is offline 2 Weeks Ago

what is the best thinner to use to thin createx paint,i heard you can use dishsoap to thin it a litlle

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Default Re: createx paint

I use createx for tshirts, i just use water to reduce, no trouble with it when spraying. for createx wicked i use 4011 reducer.
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Default Re: createx paint

I use water to reduce Createx.
While I could use the other stuff, I worry about what it will do to the paint in the brush, the paint on the shirt, the seals and packing in the brush, and what those things will do to me or my surroundings when they are atomized.
The detergents can cause all kinds of problems, they have a tendency to break down the bonding agents in things, that's why they are so good at cleaning. But those same bonding agents are what make the paint hold to the garment or paint surface, and to the surrounding molecules of paint.
Try going at it with water first, then if you need to add something else you might try the manufacturer's reducer.

Because Createx can vary drastically between colors, batches, etc., forget a set ratio of reducer to paint. Instead, look at the viscosity of the paint, and reduce it 'til it's the desired thickness or viscosity. The same holds true for any paints you need to reduce. The only paints I have ever used that I haven't had to reduce (knock on wood) are Golden Airbrush Colors. Most of the time Com-Art and Dr. PHMartin paints have been useable straight from the bottle, but not always.
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Default Re: createx paint

As Font identified, water (distilled) works best. I've used mixtures, like the one suggested by Mickstix, and have always been a little uncertain of the long term affect.

Set ratios don't work very well (IMHO) due to the inconsistency of paint thickness in the Createx line. I've used them since they came out & have noticed many variations in paint thickness & color.

For me, I like my paint to be about the consistency of milk, and I thin with distilled water. As Font mentioned, I'm always a little uneasy of adding things to the formula which could effect color vibrancy, adhesion to the material or even change the safety factor of its use for me & those around while I spray. Although the mixture mentioned in an earlier post does reduce without overly thinning, and doesn't seem to have ill effects upon the paint, I'm always skeptical about long term results.

I use a lot of the florescent colors for my Tshirts & car tags, along with opaque black & white. Recently, I've added using the Wicked black & white for details, while still using opaque black & white & the other regular textile colors. Because I use a lot of black, I like the Wicked since it has a much lower tip dry factor & covers very well. When I use the Wicked white, I try to keep it to detail only, since the other colors don't seem to cover it very well... whereas the regular opaque white can be covered fairly easily with other colors. I mention this because there is a huge difference in thickness in the florescent line in particular. Florescent pink, purple & orange tend to be heavier or thicker, while the yellow and green seem a little light & thin. The Wicked line has its own reducer, which removes any doubt as to what to use.

Therefore, I just reduce as needed to suit my style, using only distilled water. Hope I haven't muddied the water for you on this issue. I just find that distilled water is the safest (and cheapest) bet for the regular textile Createx line of paints.

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